Friday, June 21, 2013

Some initial thoughts on Hawthorn

Well, I've made my muslin of the Hawthorn bodice (version 1, the peplum top). The fit thus far is great. I made sure to measure the shoulders and compare the measurement to my trusty Butterick 4386 bodice. Based on that, I knew that I would use a size 16 for the shoulders and a size 14 for the rest. Measuring pattern pieces before you begin cutting will save you a headache later on.

Another usual alteration for me is to shorten the waist. I forgot to do that to my muslin but I will alter my pattern piece by about 3/8". So far, that's it except for one thing. One thing that I know others will have trouble with as well....the waist dart.

Oh, how I loathe bodices with only waist darts. They're always too big. Always too pointy. Always a pain in the ass to get right. 

Thankfully, there are a few resources out there to help with giant, pointy darts:

Megan Nielsen Design Diary - Darling Ranges Dart Manipulation: It's for the Darling Ranges dress pattern (I have a rant/review about this pattern coming Sunday), but the same techniques can be applied to any darted bodice. I really do love all of her tutorials even if her patterns give me grief.

Miss Tess Melissa - Pointy Bust Darts: A quick and easy suggestion for taming pointy darts.

Gertie's Blog for Better Sewing - Crepe Sew-Along: This focuses on reshaping the dart just in case you have some excess bagginess in addition to the pointy darts.

I plan on curving my waist darts and seeing if that doesn't take of my pointy problem. This is the only issue that I'm having with this bodice. Seriously. How often can one say that?


  1. I am loathe to sew darted bodices since I have a very full bust. When I saw the newest Colette pattern, I didn't get too excited. I'd love to see how this turns out and will follow your progress. Thanks for sharing!

    1. I was able to make it work! I finished Muslin #2 last night. I had to split the waist dart in two and rotate one of them to the bust. It was much easier to do than I thought and now the fit is as close to perfect as it will get.

      The bust on this pattern is a bit more roomy than other Colette patterns. I believe the pattern model is a D cup and didn't require an FBA.

  2. I've given up with Megan Nielsen patterns, for now anyway. They cause me too much grief and as a beginner I'm not really sure what is wrong with the fit and also, I don't have the patience for it! The darts on the Darling Ranges were crazy, really pointy but I managed to sort those out. The problem, as was with the Banksia, is that it's tight around the back of the shoulders and arm movement is restricted, even when I made the size up (which ends up being way to big). So I'll be looking forward to your Darling Ranges write up to see if you have the same problems!

  3. I've gotta hear what you have to say about Megan Nielsen patterns! Sometimes the sewing community can be a bit too nice, like everyone's afraid to say anything critical. Go ahead and give us your honest opinion!

  4. I will post a Darling Ranges review soon. I took a look at my sleeves and decided to change them. You can see a blurry pic of the original sleeves on my instagram feed (@neemiebean).


Thanks for commenting with thoughtfulness and maturity.

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