|Colby come back here!|
My coat is finished! I am quite proud of my efforts. After all the fuss and preparation, I finally own a coat that fits. Never happened to me before, seriously. Every coat I've purchased in the past had some kind of fit issue: sleeves too short, can't lift arms, shoulders too narrow, etc. All those issues were fixed, with relative ease I must add. This coat makes me so very happy.
First off, here are all the fit alterations I made to the original pattern (McCall's 6442). Initially, I cut a straight size 18:
- Narrow shoulder adjustment. The shoulders as drafted are really, really wide. I ended up taking about 1" off the shoulders, the equivalent of a size 14.
- Raised the armsyce 5/8". With the first muslin I noticed that I couldn't raise my arms without tightness.
- Added 1" to the hem length.
- Added 1" to sleeve length and 1/2" to the sleeve width.
Aside from fit alterations, I also added a wee bit of "tailoring" elements to my coat, including:
- Sleeve heads (purchased here). Used this method to insert them.
- Shoulder pads (slightly thinner than the ones suggested on the pattern).
- Back stay using this method.
- Twill tape at the waist and shoulder seams.
- Weft interfacing on the front bodice pieces.
I also topsitched the front of the coat and the belt. Made my own belt loops too.
The only hiccup with this particular pattern were the instructions. On boy. They were complicated for no reason. I had read all the reviews for this pattern on Pattern Review so I knew what to expect. I ignored the instructions and did it my own, convoluted way. My way resulted in me hand-stitching the hem on the circle skirt at 3 o'clock in the morning. Yeah, bad idea jeans.
The fabric is 100% wool coating from Nancy's Sewing Basket. I instantly fell in love with the color but the cheapskate in me was turned off by the price ($34/yard). After many failed swatching efforts, I sucked it up and bought the wool. I ended up buying 5 yards (!) because it shrank much more than I thought it would after pretreating (used this method).
This marked my first time working with wool and I hope that it won't be my last. I loved sewing with it. The lining is polyester charmeuse from Joann. So much time was spent finding the perfect coat fabric that I had reserved little energy for the lining search. The charmeuse was a great color match and got the job done.
So, what's next after this sewing milestone: another coat of course! For real. I've already ordered fabric. It won't be another McCall's 6442 (although the thought did cross my mind). This time around I'm torn between these three patterns: Butterick 5966 (view A), McCall's 6657 (view A minus the detachable fur collar) and Simplicity 4403 (view C). We'll see how it goes. Hopefully, I won't spend another month and a half on it.
Hooray for accomplishing a goal! Go me :)