Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Coat with a side of coat.

After making two muslins of Simplicity 4403, I nixed it. The fit was perfect with muslin #2 as I only had minor tweaking to do. The pattern just didn't do it for me. Perhaps it was the princess seams. Never been a fan of princess seams. I mentioned my other two coat options in this post: McCall's 6657 and Butterick 5966. After careful evaluation, I decided against both of those patterns. The collar on McCall's 6657 and the full skirt on Butterick 5966 both reminded me of my green coat. I needed something a wee bit different for my next coat. I needed lapels.

As if on cue, in walked Butterick 5255, another out-of -print-pattern from my stash. Although it is a simple wrap coat (I swore to myself I would not make another one), it has enough details to keep it interesting. This time around I wanted a lighter coat (the green one is heavy) and of course it would have a hood.

So far, Butterick 5255 has proven to be a breeze. I only had to make one muslin. That never happens. I'm still a bit shocked. Luckily, my alterations were few:

  • Started with View A in size 18 (shoulders, waist, bust) graded to a size 20 at the hips. I then added 1" to flare out the hem. I wanted the coat to have more of an A-line shape. Click here for an example.
  • Raised the armsyce 3/8".
  • Added 1/2" to sleeve width and 1/4" to sleeve length.
  • Added 3" to the hem. 
  • Drafted a back yoke.
  • Skipped the patch pockets in favor of inseam pockets. Will use the pocket from Vogue 8645.
  • Used the detachable/button on hood from McCall's 6800. I was inspired by this coat.

I used white muslin so it kind of looks like a lab coat.

That's it so far. Tomorrow I will cut into my fabric: charcoal wool/poly Cavalry twill from Fabric Mart. I'm debating whether I should interline the coat with flannel or not. The twill is similar to medium weight gabardine. Would the flannel be too much? My plan is to baste the flannel to the lining and then treat it as one pattern piece. Hmm. I'll sleep on it.

Oh, before I forget, here's a picture of my awesome lining:

Hooray for interesting lining fabric!

Seriously, the value/spot the dot clearance section of Hancock Fabrics is my favorite place to shop.


  1. So it looks like you've got a trench-like rain flap in back, rather than the capelet? It's interesting to see how your design has evolved!

  2. I think this is going to turn out fabulous. Butterick 5255 looks like a winner!


Thanks for commenting with thoughtfulness and maturity.

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