Saturday, February 8, 2014

Chambray: I wish I knew how to quit you.

Today's post is a two-for-one. I'm reviewing both McCall's 6885 and Vogue 8927. Neither pattern was terribly complicated nor required massive amounts of fitting...just a tweak here and there. Both patterns were made up in my most favorite fabric of the moment: chambray!

 First up is McCall's 6885 view D:

I actually completed this pattern back in December. I used Chambray Union in Indigo (purchased from Pacific Fabrics) and silver metal buttons (from Stitches). I made a straight size 18 with no alterations. It's loose-fitting without being baggy and shapeless. Although I love the idea of the popover shirt/dress, I wasn't too pleased with the outcome of this pattern. The hem annoys me. From the line drawing I had assumed that the hem was just a regular shirt-tail hem. Instead, the front curves into a deep U-shape and the side seams come up a bit high. How high, you ask? Mid-thigh. I was too busy delighting in how easy the popover was to construct to notice that the hem was wonky. Kris was not impressed with the length of this dress. He claimed he could see my ass peaking out as I walked by...I wore this with fleece tights. Will probably wear with leggings from now on. For future versions, I will change the hem and lengthen it.

Next is Vogue 8927 view E:

Two things annoyed me about this pattern: the placket was too wide...1/2" wider than some of my other shirt patterns. This annoyed me to the point that I almost scrapped this dress. Also, the ends of the collar band are pointed instead of rounded. Argh. When I attached the collar, it just looked weird. I went back and rounded the edges. Aside from that, this pattern was relatively easy. It marked my first time making a long sleeve with a button cuff. It came out okay. I will definitely need to practice that more. Alterations were few on this pattern. I started with a size 16 for the shoulders, 18 for bust and waist grading to a size 20 for the hips. Usually, I don't have to go up a size in the hips, but this dress had a slim fit in the hips. I wanted a bit more wiggle room. Also, I made a 3/8" forward shoulder adjustment, lengthened the hem 2" and added darts to the back for shaping. The fabric is cotton chambray found in the clearance section at Joann. I plan on making this again, possibly with yellow chambray. I may narrow the placket and collar band. Other than that, I wouldn't change a thing about this pattern.

Things are busy here in my little sewing room. Tomorrow, I will make a ponte knit shift dress. I have the muslin done for my Boden-inspired Mac coat. I hope to start practicing bound buttonholes for it next week. The mint sateen for my next trench coat should be in next week as well. Like I said, things are busy.


  1. I've finally found you! *smile* You've left some comments on my blog and I had to go looking for you! First I can't wait to see your version of the ponte knit shift dress 'cause you know how much I love ponte. I'm glad you were able to save the first dress because it looks like it's beautifully sewn. However, I really love the Vogue dress! As you know I have to make changes to everything I sew so I'm not surprised that you needed to make some adjustments. You did a marvelous job and this is such a great make!

  2. hi - welcome to Seattle! I love both of those dresses. I think the shirt-tail hem is lovely in the first one - I'm constantly on the lookout for something a bit nicer than my weekend yoga pants. This looks lovely! Will look forward to seeing your ponte dress. g

  3. I love your McCall's dress! While the hemline is tricky to wear, it is just the sort of style that really makes leggings or really narrow jeans look so chic. Would you mind sharing how you hemmed the dress. I am working on something similar and with the deep curves, I am worried about using my hemmer foot and getting a rippled final hem because of all the bias. What technique did you use? Thanks in advance!

    1. I used the Hemming a curved edge by machine tutorial from Colette Patterns:

  4. Niema, I loved reading your coat posts. I nominated you for the Liebster Award! :) More info is on my blog. :)


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