Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Minty fresh trench


click to enlarge

Earlier this month, I became quite inspired by the idea of a mint green trench coat. I'm not sure where exactly I got the idea for it, perhaps it was Pinterest. Anyway, I lucked up on some fabric and everything just fell into place.




I used the Silhouettes Patterns Barbara's Trench once again. I've reviewed it here so there's no real need to go over every little detail. I do have one major gripe with this pattern that I glossed over a bit in Liberty Trench review: the sleeves suck. There, I said it. Unless you're going to use a 1 1/2" thick shoulder pad, you will have to raise the armsyce on this pattern. Otherwise, you will not be able to raise your arms. Last time I struggled with this but I was determined to work it out for the next trench.

I tried a couple of new techniques to raise the armsyce as well as reducing the amount of sleeve cap ease. When I made my very first muslin of this trench, I made it without any adjustments whatsoever. The sleeve was hard to ease then. After adjustments, it was worse. To make it work for the Liberty Trench, I attached the sleeve but had to unpick, trim off some sleeve cap and baste again until it fit. Initially, I didn't want to do this again. However, after all of my techniques failed, I decided just to use that method.

So, I had the pattern all cut out and ready to go. I had an extra yard of fabric left over and decided to make a hood. It wasn't cut out yet. Just as I reached the sleeve attachment phase, it occurred to me to use a different sleeve pattern. I tried it out on my muslin and it worked. My hood dreams were dashed but at least I would have sleeves that fit. I used Butterick 5255 for the sleeves.


click to enlarge

Supplies:

5 yards of pale mint green cotton sateen from Fabric Mart
Buttons from Pacific Trimming
Leather buckles from AT Button
White polyester lining for sleeves
White pongee lining for body
 
No expensive lining fabric this time. I had both lining fabrics already in my stash.

Overall, this coat was very easy to sew this time around. I didn't encounter the lining gap mentioned in my previous review. I'm not sure what I did differently as I used the same pattern but whatever. I also sewed the shield to the wrong side. Oops. And to top it off, I cheaped out on interfacing. For the Liberty Trench, I used tricot interfacing. It was great and reduced the wrinkles without being stiff. Minty Fresh Trench got the lightweight fusible interfacing I had in my stash. It made the coat just a wee bit stiff and it wrinkles if you breathe on it. Believe it or not, I starched and ironed that coat before I took photos. Never cheap out on interfacing. Lesson learned. Oh well. I can live with it.

Will there be another trench coat in my future? Probably. I would like to have one in navy. It's on the back burner for now. I think I have plenty of outerwear. But I said that last time and looked what happened.

8 comments:

  1. Oh Niema. Ohhhhh Niema!!!!!

    This is FANTASTIC!

    You have really done an amazing job. All of the details are perfect!

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  2. This trench is all kinds of amazing. I know you will look fabulous in it!

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  3. Great idea to use a different sleeve pattern, something Peggy herself would say! I too made this coat and hate the sleeves. Yours is very nice.

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  4. Fantastic! I'm glad you got your sleeves to work even if the hood had to be sacrificed. It's a good excuse to find a matching umbrella :)

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  5. Aaah!!! Love this! I was THIS close to making this pattern a few weeks ago when I was looking at trench patterns. I love yours! It looks really sharp. Your review of it echoes some of the problems I was worried I would encounter, I've never sewn something from this company before so I was nervous. Thanks for sharing, this is really great looking! Love the color.

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  6. I must make a spring trench coat! Your post and pictures have given me just the motivation I need! I love your coat and think you did a great job. Way to go!

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  7. Thanks everyone for the lovely comments :)

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  8. Gorgeous all the way round, but it looks ice blue on my monitor!

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Thanks for commenting with thoughtfulness and maturity.

 
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