I also had a hankering for a new pattern. Since the Christine Haynes Emery dress had such great reviews, I figured I would try it out. This is the first indie pattern I've purchased this year. I liked that it's an actual dress, not a rectangle with an elastic waist. Oh you indie patterns...you'll try anything to convince me that a rectangle is universally flattering. Ha!
Anyway, it's been a while since I made a woven dress, let alone a lined one. Aside from my dabbles with chambray, I haven't made a woven dress since I left Austin. My Darling Ranges dress was actually sewn up last August. It was time. I had pattern. I had the fabric.
The Emery dress pattern was easy to fit and to sew. I made a quick muslin of the bodice and was immediately won over. The fit wasn't absolute perfection (which pattern is, really?) but it had potential. I had been hesitant to try out other bodice patterns since I have my TNT Butterick bodice. But sometimes you have to try something new.
I made most of my usual adjustments to the bodice, including:
- Size 12 for the shoulders grading up to a size 16 for bust and waist
- Forward shoulder 3/8"
- Shortened the darts 2" (The darts were super long)
- Took wedge from back neckline to combat gaping
- Changed the neckline from boat neck to a scoop
And a new-to-me adjustment: 1/2" swayback. I noticed that on my muslin, the back waist had wrinkled something fierce. I also added a smidge to the waist. Now looking back, I wish that I hadn't. I think it would have looked more flattering if it had been just a tad more fitted. I also used another pocket pattern. The included pockets were too small. Instead of the 2" blind hem, I did a 5/8" narrow hem. The fabric was a silky navy polyester crepe with tiny red bows which is better suited for narrow hem.
The instructions looked thorough enough. I did not use them. It's not a complicated dress to sew. The fabric requirement was 3 yards for 60" wide fabric. I only needed 2 yards. I opted to fully line the dress with navy pongee. I used New Look 6843 view A for the lining skirt. I felt that two gathered skirts would look a bit too poofy.
Although the dress is cute, I don't think this is the most flattering look for me. I will definitely use the bodice again but not the skirt. Perhaps if it were fuller? Hmm.